2008 Domaine de Fontsainte Gris de Gris
From Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar: “Light, bright pink. Honeysuckle, green tea, cranberry and strawberry on the nose. Juicy, finely etched red berry and citrus flavors are gently sweet and given spine by nervy minerality. Richer on the finish, which repeats the strawberry and floral notes and leaves dusty minerals behind. Serve this with a good chill, to emphasize the wine’s freshness.” 88 points
“This is our best-selling rosé alongside the Domaine Tempier Bandol, which no longer makes the cut for this section of price points. Gris is as good as ever, a rosé from Grenache Gris—a Fontsainte invention, by the way. It has so much delicacy and finesse and pure downability that it practically drinks itself.” — Kermit Lynch Newsletter (July 2009)
“Fresh, fuzzy red fruits prevailed in the mouth, avoiding the candied character that some of the region’s rosés can carry. I could see the appeal in its delicacy of body (only 12.5%) and subtlety of fruit and texture. It would actually make for a convincing introduction to dry rosé for those that are often put off or unconvinced by its fruitier or more boldly spicy counterparts from the Rhône and Provence. I’d happily drink it again.” David McDuff
“Fruity and fresh, with plenty of berry, melon and red peach flavors. 85 points” — Wine Spectator
| In the weeds lees… | |
| Wine | 2008 Domaine de Fontsainte Gris de Gris |
| Grapes | 60% Grenache Gris and Grenache Noir; 5% Syrah; 10% Mourvèdre; 15% Carignan; 10% Cinsault |
| Vinification | A rosé bled from the vat. The grapes are harvested by hand and kept whole. After a natural settling of the juice for 24 hours, the alcoholic fermentation takes place at 18°C for 35 days. The malolactic fermentation is of course blocked and the wine rests for 1 month before bottling, preserving all the freshness and intensity of its aromas. |
| Vineyard | Silica-clay-limestone; gritty and gravely with some pudding stones. |
| Alcohol | 13% |
| Color | crystalline salmon |
| Scent | Expressive and particularly tonic, the wine immediately gives off notes of raspberry, cherry and freshly picked strawberries followed by exotic aromas such as pineapple and mango. |
| Taste | Direct, considerable freshness; the density and richness of the fruit mingle with the superb acidic vitality giving the wine a frisson (I had to look this up: a sudden, passing sensation of excitement; a shudder of emotion; thrill) and a magnificent perseverance. |
| How to Serve | at 8°C (I think that’s “chilled” to you and me) |
| Food Pairing | Stunningly balanced, this is an extremely appetizing wine (literally and figuratively); ideal as an aperitif with bruschetta, crushed olives, aoli, grilled fish, lamb, poultry seasoned with rosemary (any nibbly you would think of as Mediterranean cuisine). |
2007 Le Petit Chambord Cheverny from Domaine Francois Cazin
“Dry and chiseled, with chalk, fleur de sel and lime notes that stay fresh and mouthwatering on the finish.” 87 points — Wine Spectator
“I was very excited to see this wine on the shelf and I showed great restraint by only taking a single bottle home with me. The 2007 is a really lovely bottle of wine — great aromatics, very good acidity with pronounced citrus and mineral components. A great food wine (especially well paired with seafood given the citrus and acidity). Another gem in the tried and true portfolio of Louis/Dressner. Recommended — and buy more than just one bottle. — Tom Delorme, a food and wine journal blogger.
| In the weeds lees… | |
| Wine | 2007 Le Petit Chambord Cheverny |
| Grapes | 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chardonnay (added for a bit of richness and texture) |
| Vinification | Cazin grows fruit near the Sologne (a marshy region of the central Loire that was historically France’s most famous hunting grounds), tending vines of considerable age and the only grower in Cheverny to harvest all his fruit by hand. The resulting yields are well below average in any given year. Unafraid and able to harvest very ripe fruit, yet with superb acid retention. Since 1997, the wine has been bottled unfiltered by gravity. His wines have consistently been the top pick of the vintage at the annual Loire Valley wine show in Angers. |
| Vineyard | The soils are a mix of limestone, silica and clay, and wines from this area are known to possess minerality and acidity in abundance. |
| Alcohol | Yes |
| Color | Light, light golden straw (see pic) |
| Scent | Hint of matchstick gives way to crisp, clean bouquet of white flowers, grapefruit, laurel and citrus peel. |
| Taste | This wine is vibrant and fresh with intense fruit flavors — brisk gooseberry, papaya and lime fruit accented by crunchy, salty minerals. Buttered green apples highlight the wine’s long, precise finish. When you add the overlay of acidity and minerality, the wine finishes dry. The combination will make you want another sip. This wine has the weight of some New World whites with considerably more elegance, better acidity and lower alcohol. |
| How to Serve | Chilled but not too chilled; opens nicely. |
| Food Pairing | Crisp, zesty and versatile with food — would complement simple roasted chicken, freshwater fish dishes, fresh chèvres and light pork preparations. |
2007 Muscadet from Domaine de la Pepière, Sèvre-et-Maine 
From eRobertParker.com (aka, the Wine Advocate), 87 points: “Mark Ollivier’s 2007 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie smells of fresh almond, bitter-sweet flowers, and oyster shell. With a surprising softness for its genre, and with a juicy generosity of apple and almond that reminds me slightly of a true Pinot Blanc, this deposits subtly bitter chalk and iodine notes in its finish.”
“Good/Very Good. Fresh, with plenty of minerals and a little bit of richness about it. Mouth-watering and crisp. Repeat favorite.” — Wall Street Journal (July 10, 2009)
“A hint of matchstick gives way to lemon zest, honeysuckle and fleur de sel notes, backed by a bracing finish. Has good length. 88 points” — Wine Spectator
“Quality wines from Muscadet are more serious than simple, but not so serious you need to think about them. Lively acidity and a mineral quality are hallmarks, and also make the wine easy to match with a variety of foods. If you like real Chablis (AC), Pinot Grigio, Sancerre, or similarly medium-bodied whites, you will probably enjoy a Muscadet — and you’ll pay a few dollars less.” — Wine Monthly
| In the weeds lees… | |
| Wine | 2007 Muscadet from Domaine de la Pepière, Sèvre-et-Maine |
| Grapes | Muscadet (produced from the Mélon de Bourgogne grape) |
| Vinification | Techniques are traditional for the area: no skin maceration but direct pressing within 2 hours of picking, racking of the must after 12 hours to remove the solid matter, and controlled temperatures, not to exceed 71.6 degrees F, for the fermentation. The aging of the wine, on its lees in stainless steel vats, lasts until bottling, about eight months later. This extended contact gives it the crispness that makes Muscadet so refreshing. Marc Ollivier hand harvests (a rarity in the region), uses natural yeasts, waits for the wine to finish and bottles with a very light filtration. |
| Vineyard | Located at the western end of France’s expansive Loire valley, Muscadet captures the essence of the Atlantic Ocean, located just a stone’s throw away, with its brisk sea salt, chalk and mineral notes pushed by crackling acidity.The vineyards are in old vines (40 years and older) with a particularly good exposure on a plateau overlooking the river Sèvre. All the vineyards are from original stock (Marc Ollivier is the only grower in the Muscadet who does not have a single clonal selection in his vineyards). |
| Alcohol | Yes |
| Color | A lighter shade of pale. |
| Scent | Fresh, stony and pure on the nose, with green apple, pear and jasmine accented by dusty talc and a gentle whiff of petroleum (I know this doesn’t sound delicious…it’s akin to that lit match note, but I can assure you that it adds a pleasant je ne sais qua). |
| Taste | Crisp and focused but also juicy, with vibrant pear and tart peach skin flavors, a pinch of salt, a bit of effervescence but all supported by gentle acidity. |
| How to Serve | Chill. Pluck out cork. Pour. Repeat. |
| Food Pairing | The wines are ideal alongside raw oysters and steamed shellfish (shrimp, langoustines, crab), but won’t be overmatched by a simple herb-roasted chicken either. According to WineMonthly blogger, “I enjoyed this immensely with homemade baked ribs and BBQ sauce, and recommend it with other pork dishes, spicy cuisine, seafood (sushi!), and most white meats. In fact, it would be more difficult to find foods that it doesn’t go with.” |
